Observing waves from a moving ship
4 Care should be taken to ensure that the
observations, especially those of period, are not influenced by
the waves generated by the motion of the ship.
4.1 DIRECTION FROM WHICH THE WAVES COME. This
is easily obtained either by sighting directly across the wave
front or by sighting along the crests of the waves and
remembering that the required direction differs from this by
90º. Direction is always recorded true, not magnetic.
4.2 PERIOD*. For
measurements of period, a stopwatch is desirable. If this is not
available, an ordinary watch with a seconds hand may be used or,
alternatively, a practised observer may count seconds. The
observer selects a distinctive patch of foam or a small object
floating on the water at some distance from the ship, and notes
the time at which it is on the crest of each successive wave.
The procedure is repeated for the larger waves of each
successive group until at least twenty observations are
available. The period is then taken as the average time for a
complete oscillation from crest to crest. In a fast ship it will
be found that the “patch of foam” method will rarely last for
more than one complete oscillation and that many waves should be
observed separately. With practice, suitable waves can easily be
picked out and the timing from crest to crest becomes quite
simple. When it is desired to use an object (an empty beer can
is usually conspicuous against the sea and will remain afloat
long enough to serve its purpose) it should be thrown as far
forward as possible. Another method available to the observer
with a stopwatch is to observe two or more consecutive “central”
waves of a wave group while the watch is running continuously,
then to stop the watch until the central waves of the next wave
group appear, the watch being then restarted. This procedure is
repeated until at least twenty complete oscillations have been
observed. The period is then obtained by dividing the total time
by the number of oscillations. It is important to note that the
periods between times of crests passing a point on the ship are
not the ones required.
4.3 HEIGHT. Although wave-recorders are fitted
to a few research ships, there is at present no method of
measuring the height of waves suitable for general use on
merchant ships, but a practised observer can make useful
estimates. The procedure to be adopted depends on the length of
the waves relative to the length of the ship. If the length of
the waves is short in comparison with the ship’s length, i.e. if
the ship spans two or more wave crests, the height should be
estimated from the appearance of the waves at or on the side of
the ship, at times when the pitching and rolling of the ship is
least. For the best result, the observer should take up a
position as low down the ship as possible, preferably amidships
where the effect of pitching is least, and on the side of the
ship towards which the waves are coming.
4.3.1 This method fails when the length of the
waves exceeds the length of the ship, for then the ship rises
bodily with the passage of each wave crest. The observer should
then take up a position in the ship so that his eye is just in
line with the advancing wave crest and the horizon, when the
ship is vertical in the trough. The height of eye above the
ship’s waterline is then the height of the wave. The nearer the
observer is to an amidships position, the less chance will there
be of the measurement being vitiated by pitching. If the ship
rolls heavily, it is particularly important to make the
observation at the moment when she is upright in the trough.
Exaggeration of estimates of wave height is
mostly due to errors caused by rolling (see figures 2.1 and
2.2). When the ship is rolling (figure 2.2), the observer at “0”
should take up a higher position to get a line on the horizon
than when she is upright (figure 2.1).
Figure 2.1
Figure 2.2
4.3.2 The observation of
height of waves is most difficult when the length of the waves
exceeds the length of the ship and their height is small. The
best estimate of height can be obtained by going as near the
water as possible, but even then the observation can only be
rough. In making height estimates an attempt should be made to
fix a standard of height in terms of the height of a man or the
height of a bulwark, forecastle or well-known dimension in the
ship. There is generally a tendency to overestimate the height
of short waves and underestimate the height of long waves.
4.3.3 Estimating the height of a wave from a
high bridge in a fast ship is a difficult job and much will
depend on the skill and ingenuity of the observer; in many cases
all one can hope for is a very rough estimate. All estimates of
wave height should be made preferably with the ship on an even
keel so that the observer’s height of eye is consistent. The
inherent difficulties already mentioned, together with the
practical difficulties of estimation, make it essential that the
recorded height be the average value of about twenty distinct
observations. These observations should be made on the central
waves of the more prominent wave groups.
*There are several different definitions of wave period, such as
modal period, zero up-crossing period, etc. The visual
observation of wave period does not necessarily represent the
necessary wave periods required for numerical processing, and
corrections should be made as appropriate.